Nanga Parbat the true story by Aydin Irmak

Aydin Irmak underground artist, author, cyclist and a mountaineer.

By Asem Mustafa Awan

ISLAMABAD (8-08-2017) Aydin Irmak a cyclist and a mountaineer made giant waves in the alpine world starting from lowest point on planet earth in 2012 and reaching the highest point Everest with sheer will power and perseverance.

He set this, as an example for others to follow that with truth and honest approach nothing is impossible.

Aydin is an author of 12 books that deal with reality and illusion and is an established ‘underground artist’. It has been five years and more, he has been putting the dots together to present a case for international climbing community that ‘place of the prophets is now taken over by pharos.’

Aydin attempted Nanga Parbat 8125 meters in June 2017, but left the peak finding it very contemptible to climb.

This scribe patiently waited for Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa and all team and put this report together that is presented for the readers to be the judge.

Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa was the team leader in which Aydin Irmak was the solo joint team member.

Aydin quest for Nanga Parbat summit was abruptly put on halt as there were no ropes, no high camp proper food and no high camp tents. No planning and no communication were established.

He became a victim of ‘tour operators tactics’ in Pakistan and Nepal and he raised the issue with mountaineering authorities in Pakistan.

Aydin is convinced there is more to it that meets the eye and has a series of events in which he placed his own life at risk to get to the center of facts.

An international crime scene is live and open and Aydin is against all odds in exposing the select few who want to control mountains and are stopping at nothing to change the whole climbing philosophy.

Mingma G Sherpa from Nepal team was first to leave Nanga Parbat Base Camp, the moment Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa team arrived at the Base Camp.

It came to Aydin attention by Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa saying that Mingma G Sherpa on his way down cut all ropes which is considered a crime in Nepal and is punishable.

It is an interesting fact that Mingma and Aydin have been ‘brothers’ in mountains for many years. How this association went sour is another story.

Aydin reached camp 2 for acclimatization and there was no rope between camp 1 and the rock part.

This rope cutting was also mentioned by all climbers in Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa team as it created a tension, as there was not enough rope with the team.

An established norm nothing is free and there is a price for everything, the rope money was included in the package deal with Pemba Sherpa but there was not enough rope for the climb.

Aydin Irmak left the mountain as basic ethics in climbing were violated.

This scribe met Aydin Irmak in federal capital during an event attended by all the alpine authorities of Pakistan where the issue was raised but nothing was done to resolve it.

Present on the occasion was Alpine Club President Lt Col (Retd) Manzur Hussain and Lt Col (Retd) Dr Abdul Jabbar Bhatti (AJB).

It is important to note that Aydin Irmak met AJB in Kathmandu Hospital and interviewed him and his sherpa. AJB rescue is very unique as it was the highest rescue ever done in Everest history.

Aydin Irmak’s only condition, before releasing this interview was to fact checking everything from the team that was on Nanga Parbat led by Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa.

Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa with four other Sherpas and three commercial clients managed to put six climbers in all on summit on July 7 and July 8.

The success stories are on Capital Times but few bits and pieces that were brushed under the snow are now placed before the readers to see the true picture.

There were no ropes between camp 1 to camp 4. Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa had no ropes and money was collected to get ropes as 6000 meters of rope was needed and the ropes that were with the team and other climbers on the mountain made it up to 2000 meters.

Kim Jong Bin from Korea offered summit bonus of 2500USD to Pechhumbe Sherpa and he left his client Ms Naoko Watanabe from Japan alone and helpless at Camp 4 and made summit with Kim and Lakpa Sherpa on July 7.

Ms Naoko was left alone and in panic, while Chhiji Nurbu, Sanu Sherpa and Ms Luo Jing made the summit on July 8.

Pemba Thanduk came down from the summit team of Ms Luo Jing to help Ms Naoko and the two made it down to lower camps.

Aydin Irmak is convinced that there are few other factors which have hijacked the true spirit of alpinism and mountains are held hostage by few who want to control the Himalayas and discourage the true alpinists in pursuit of this altruistic sport.


Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here